The Saarburger Rausch vineyard / Weingut Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Two wines enjoyed over dinner the other day suggested a question: how can wine writers articulate a wine’s delicacy to their readers? Both wines were Rieslings. The first, Joh. Jos. Prüm’s 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, was exuberantly expressive, bursting from the glass with a projected bouquet … More Articulating delicacy
Balance is perhaps the most universally pursued quality in fine wine. Balance in one form or another is what we seek in a healthy vineyard’s vines and in berries ripe for harvest; it is the desired terminus of a wine’s élevage; and it is, in a sense, the essence of the relationship we seek to … More Balance: cancellation or synergy?
When Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier announced that his new policy will be to withhold the release of his exquisite Musigny until it approaches maturity, he began with an affirmation of a creed which has been taken for granted by generations of wine lovers: “There will be no dispute if I say that no wine can be called … More On bottle age and expectations
As Fall begins in earnest, I find myself yearning for the wines of the Northern Rhone, and above all the kaleidoscopic complexity and refined rusticity of mature Côte-Rôtie. In particular, my fantasies play on the 1980 and 1983 vintages of the legendary Gentaz-Dervieux Côte Brune, two of the most memorable bottles of wine that I … More In praise of Domaine Bernard Levet
Domaine Coche-Dury’s wines are almost universally celebrated as the pinnacle of white Burgundy. As John Gilman writes, in many ways, Jean-François Coche ‘wears a mantle in the pantheon of white Burgundy winemakers that Henri Jayer wears amongst the red winemakers’, and since Raphaël Coche officially took over the reins from his father in 2010 this … More Reflections on quality, taste, and Coche-Dury’s white Burgundies