As Fall begins in earnest, I find myself yearning for the wines of the Northern Rhone, and above all the kaleidoscopic complexity and refined rusticity of mature Côte-Rôtie. In particular, my fantasies play on the 1980 and 1983 vintages of the legendary Gentaz-Dervieux Côte Brune, two of the most memorable bottles of wine that I … More In praise of Domaine Bernard Levet